Halifax: Prime time tourism

One-upmanship

One-upmanship

Halifax is not usually dropped into conversations where “can you beat this trip” is being discussed. This is definitely a mistake. As the capital of the province of Nova Scotia (NS), Canada, Halifax is a metropolitan city that is considered a major economic center in eastern Canada, a wonderful weekend retreat and a gateway to some of the best wines, historical landmarks, outdoor sports and exciting sea adventures.

Duly Noted

Halifax was ranked as the fourth best place to live in Canada (2012) by MoneySense magazine while fDiMagazine placed it first on a list of small cities based on quality of life (2009). From 2008 – 2012 Nova Scotia’s growth in cross-border projects put it in 5th place in the country behind Ontario, Quebec, British Columbia and Alberta. In addition, the province offers over 20 post-secondary institutions including 10 universities.

Smarts In NS. Who Knew

Halifax is the birthplace of many famous athletes, scholars and scientists but for practical purposes I have singled out:

• Sir Sam Cunard. Thank you for the cruise ship. His Atlantic passenger ships include the RMS Queen Mary and RMS Queen Elizabeth. His name lives on today in the Cunard Line, a branch of the Carnival Line cruise empire.

• Alfred Fuller. Thank you for door-to-door sales and the broom. He is the founder of the Fuller Brush Company.

• Oswald Avery who, in 1944, discovered that DNA carries a cell’s genetic material and can be altered through transformation.

• Christopher Bailey. Born in Halifax – current CEO of Burberry.

• Alexander Graham Bell. Thanks for the telephone. The Bell family vacationed near Baddeck on Cape Breton Island.

• Captain John Patch was from the Yarmouth- area and he invented the ship propeller (1833).

• Dr. Abdullah Kirumir from Windsor- invented a rapid flow-through diagnostic platform that detects infectious diseases like HIV and hepatitis C and B in two minutes.

Cemetery Tourism

Halifax and the Titanic

Even if cemetery tourism is not on your usual sight-seeing list a recommended stop is the Fairview Lawn Cemetery where 121 victims of the RMS Titanic are interred. The city of Halifax played an important role in collecting the remains of the deceased and 19 Titanic victims are buried in the Mount Olivet Cemetery and 10 are interred in the nearby Jewish Baron de Hirsch Cemetery.

It is thanks to three chartered ships from Halifax’s White Star Line and embalmers from Nova Scotia that the remains were secured. The Mayflower Curling Rink in Halifax became a temporary morgue. Family members or their representative collected the remains that could be identified while those that were neither identified nor claimed were buried in Halifax.

Food. Wine. Beer

Those in the know recognize Halifax as a haven for foodies. From small waterside cafes to gourmet dining, some of the best chefs are creatively using the fresh fish and local resources to create distinctive menu selections.

The Restaurant at Five Fishermen italic

Historical Significance:

The restaurant building (early 1800s) was the first school in the country offering free education. It then became the Halifax Victorian School of Art (NSCAD) under the direction of Anna Leonowens who, before arriving in this city, was the governess to the children of the King of Siam. Her experiences are captured in the book she authored, Anna and the King of Siam which evolved into a Broadway musical and movie (The King and I). The building morphed into the Snows Funeral home and in 1912 with the sinking of the RMS Titanic off the coast of Newfoundland, the remains of the wealthier victims (i.e., John Jacob Aster and Charles M. Hayes) were brought to this building.

In 1917, when two ships collided in the Halifax harbor carrying dangerous cargoes causing a massive blast killing 2000+ – Snows housed the many bodies. In 1975 it once again morphed, this time, becoming the Restaurant at Five Fishermen.

Culinary Significance:

Travelers who have done their homework know that this charming dining opportunity is noted for its Nova Scotian seafood and Alberta Angus beef. Carmelo Olivar is the Executive Chef who worked for the present King of Saudi Arabia and managed the Caffe Aroma in Jeddah which in 1997 was voted the best restaurant based on ambiance, service and food quality. Olivar has also been associated with the Montarosa Italian Restaurant as a Chef de Partie. Today he works magic for guests at the Five Fishermen.

Awards Galore: 2005-2009 Wine Spectator; 2007 – Restaurant of the Year Taste of Nova Scotia; 2010 Best Seafood Award The Coast

The Menu:

Start with Cioppino ($C10) for a sensuous mélange of clams, shrimp, scallops and mussels simmered in a roasted garlic broth. (Could be considered a San Francisco version of a Bouillabaisse). For really big appetites or a small group, start with the Fishermen’s Catch ($C70) for chilled shrimp, mussels, scallops, baby clams, oysters, lobster and crab.

Entrees receiving accolades include Classic Maritme Lobster ($C40) with new potato and bacon salad, celery root-fennel slaw and drawn butter while the Pan Seared Halibut ($C29) offers cornmeal crusted Sambro halibut served with lobster potato hash and grilled asparagus with tangerine gastrique and fried capers.

For a dessert that introduces local produce select the Blueberry Lime Cheesecake ($C10) made with local wild Nova Scotia blueberries, blueberry coulis and Chantilly cream.

The Wine:

The excellent wines of Nova Scotia are well represented on the menu including the incredibly popular (White) Nova 7 and Tidal Bay (Benjamin Bridge), L’Acadie Blanc (Luckett Vineyards) as well as the (Red) Marechal Foc (Domaine De Grand Pre, Vintner’s Reserve) and Marquette (Jost Vineyards).

– Recommended: Petite Riviere Vineyard Leon Millot Rose (Crousetown, Lunenburg County
Nova Scotia)

One of the oldest wine growing regions in North America, Petite Riviere has vineyards that date to 1630s. The unique terroir of the region is framed by the Lunenburg County’s rocky soil and a long growing season is enhanced by the ocean’s Gulf Stream. The area yields bold fruity wines and is noted for its Reds.

The Harmon Hills area, similar to that of Provence, was first planted and developed in 1994, followed by St. Mary’s vineyard in 1999. Located within 5 miles of NS beaches, the area enjoys soft ocean breezes that tempers the heat of each day. The area (The LaHave River Valley) is in a unique grape growing region thanks to the terroir featuring drumlin topography (sand, gravel and broken slate providing) excellent internal drainage.

Tasting:

Unusually dark in color for a rose, it appears closer to a Cabernet. Hint of old roses and cherry and oak barrels to the nose with a delicious light lemon to lime citrus experience on the palate. The tangy minerality could be astringent but it is not – just produces a delight clean finish.

• Prosecco Frizzante Villa Teressa Organic

A delicious product of a family-owned business, Vini Tonon started in 1936 in the Veneto region of northeastern Italy. Truly organic, this Prosecco is light-straw to white in the glass, delivers a slight cherry aroma to the nose followed by a tart berry flavor to the palate leaving a hint of lemon on the finish that is crisp and clean. Serve chilled. fivefishermen.com

The Mayor and His Beer. Alexander Keith

Beer is a major contender for foodie affection – especially in Halifax – because locals have been exposed to the quality beer produced by Alexander Keith since the 19th century. This beverage in this City is more than beer – it is liquid history.

At the age of 17 Alexander Keith emigrated from Scotland (1817) to northern England to learn how to brew beer. At the age of 23 he left his studies and migrated to Halifax where he became the brew master and business manager for Charles Boggs. He bought the brewery, expanded its operations and moved it to Keith Hall. Over the years, Keith became a very wealthy business executive and a pillar of his community. His political career started when he was first elected to the city council, then he became commissioner of public property and finally he was elected Mayor of Halifax.

Alexander Keith’s is one of the oldest commercial breweries in North America. Today is it part of the Labatt organization, a subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch InBev. The product became available in the US in 2011 and includes Keith’s India Pale Ale, Keith’s Red Amber Ale and dozens of other blends.

Real Nova Scotia Good Time

Good marketing analysis determined that the Keith beer was more than just another beer – it was a legend too good to just pass along at the bar – so they developed a theatrical tour of Alexander Keith’s original brewery and a costumed portrayal of his life. Tourists on the tour of the Brewery are hosted by actors portraying citizens of 1863 and are entertained by songs and stories of the period.

No – you will not find out the fine art of making beer – but guests are encouraged to samples at the end of the very lively and very well done dramatic tour. The space is available for groups that include beer tastings and buffet dining. There is also an Atlantic Beer Institute with a classroom. When the meetings are over, the beer starts to flow. keiths.ca/#/
Chives Canadian Bistro

Listed on Trip Advisor as among the ten best restaurants in Halifax, this is a down-scale dining option directed to the unpretentious but serious foodie. Opened in 2001 the space was originally occupied by the Bank of Nova Scotia; however, the ambiance today is more café than Wall Street.

A trendy menu that focuses on locally grown produce, the warm and charming food presentation starts with the arrival of a brown paper bag closeting incredibly sinful buttermilk biscuits with molasses and butter.

Craig Flinn is the owner and executive chef at Chives. Many of the recipes used to create his dining experiences can be found in one of the three cook books he has authored. An influential culinary figure in the Halifax farm-to-table scene, his restaurant was recognized as the Gold Winner of the Best Use of Local Ingredients and the Bronze for Best Wine List by The Coast, Best of Halifax Readers’ Choice City Awards – 2014.

Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market

This space (open weekends) definitely gets an OMG. It is places like this that make me wish that I lived in a Star Trek world and every Saturday morning I could send my molecules to pick-up farm fresh fruits, vegetables, freshly slaughtered meat and game and recently – plucked fish and seafood. Goodies range from mixed nuts and pumpkin seeds to home – baked small-batch cookies, cakes, breads, chocolates, beer and wine. The dinner-in-a-hurry opportunities range from personally made Polish pierogis, Asian dumplings, to a variety of Caribbean treats including Antigua – influenced curried goat with rice and thyme – spiced carrots.

Schedule enough time to stop at Cosman and Whidden Honey. This NS family farm is home to 1200 bee colonies that turn out liquid, creamed, and comb honey made from fruit blossoms, clover and wildflowers.

Many of the vendors appear to be “home grown” and may not accept credit cards – so bring lots Canadian currency. halifaxfarmersmarket.com

At the Westin. More Than a Siesta

When is a hotel more than just a place to take a shower and get to sleep? It is when management has determined that the hotel dining room will be more than a place to eat at the start or end a day, it will be a viable restaurant option in this foodie-conscious city. In 2012 elements on hollis at the Westin Nova Scotian won The Coast Best of Halifax Award (Bronze) for having the Best Hotel Restaurant and in 2014 the Wine Spectator presented the Westin with the Award of Excellence.

The pathway to the restaurant is through the hotel lobby (it deserves a street entrance). The very spacious dining room enables private conversations and is an excellent locale for business meetings and intimate moments. Locally sourced (within 50 miles) ingredients enables guests to eat well while simultaneously supporting local farmers and producers. The wine list features Nova Scotia wines, many available nearby on the wine trail. There is also a selection of local craft/artisanal beers that provide opportunities for excellent pairings.

Sheena Dunn, a talented and creative member of the culinary team studied at the George Brown Niagara Culinary Arts and has won many awards for her ability to morph the ordinary into the extraordinary – following the strategy of the food and beverage program…chef crafted comfort food. The menu features Ramen Noodles – a Japanese meat and fish based soy sauce and miso flavored broth with wheat and egg noodles, dried seaweed, shitake mushrooms, sesame seeds, green onions, bamboo shoots and soft-boiled eggs.

Guests feel like they have gone to Pork Heaven after devouring the 3 Little Pigs Beef Burger with pulled pork, Canadian back bacon, crispy bacon strips, BBQ sauce, cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onion and garlic aioli.

A wine to be enjoyed: Domaine Grand de Pre Tidal Bay (Nova Scotia). It is a masterful blend of L’Acadie Blanc, Vidal, Ortega, Muscat, Seyval grapes. Pale Yellow to the eye like sunlight in the early morning. To the nose hints of citrus – think lemon squash with a sweet cantaloupe mist. The palate is able to source – out butter tempered with limes and lemons creating a complex and interesting taste experience. Delicious satin-smooth finish with a memorable sour note.

The hotel is conveniently located next to the Via Rail Canada station, has ample parking and is located a few steps from a shopping mall, restaurants and everything that makes Halifax a memorable destination.

Knowing Halifax

First time visitors may find it even more interesting if they spend a few hours at the beginning of their stay with Bob from Blue Diamond Tours. Born in Halifax, Bob is a wealth of personal views and historical facts about the locale and spending time with him is recommended. bluediamondtours.com

Getting to Halifax

Halifax is easily reached via Air Canada and is the only Four-Star international network carrier in North America. The seats are actually comfortable and the onboard team has an interest in providing customers with service and assistance. This airline flies to more than 190 destinations on five continents and, as a founding member of the Star Alliance, regardless of the departure airport, it is likely that a convenient flight to Halifax can be sourced through the website. Air Canada is pet friendly and small “companions” in their own carriers count as one standard item toward the carry-on baggage allowance. For additional information, click here.

For additional information on Halifax, click here.

About the author

Avatar of Linda Hohnholz

Linda Hohnholz

Editor in chief for eTurboNews based in the eTN HQ.

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