Great country walks: Cross Fell, Pennine Hills, Cumbria

Difficulty Challenging
Distance 16 miles/26km
Typical duration 8 hours
Start and finish Kirkland car park
Map OS Explorer OL31
Step-by-step details and maps ramblers.org.uk/crossfell

In a nutshell

The north Pennines are truly spectacular and have justifiably been designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. This circular walk crosses wild, remote heather moorland and blanket peat, and has some steep ascents and descents in places.

Starting in the tiny village of Kirkland, the route climbs steadily up Brown Hill and skirts around the side of High Cap, before climbing again up to the summit of Cross Fell, with its far-reaching views. You’ll continue to Knock, Little and Great Dun fells along the Pennine Way, returning to Kirkland via Milburn. It’s a long way, so be sure to take refreshments with you.

Why it’s special

The thing that makes this walk truly special is the remote nature of the north Pennines, sometimes referred to as “England’s last wilderness”. You’ll often feel you have the whole place to yourself. At 2,930ft, Cross Fell is the highest point in the Pennines, a stony, flat-topped summit from where, on a clear day, you will be treated to incredible views, looking out over both the east and west coasts, the Lake District and even as far as the Cheviots.

It also overlooks the beautiful Eden Valley, all lush green countryside dotted with pretty towns and villages. Heading south-east from the summit you’ll see the large white “golf ball” that is the radar dome on Great Dun Fell, a landmark visible from miles.

Joining the Pennine Way, marker stones with yellow arrows help keep you on the right track as you head down to the footbridge over Swindale Beck. The wild landscape is the key attraction of this walk, but among sights to look out for as you approach Kirkland on the final stretch are the Hanging Walls of Mark Anthony – three low cultivation terraces which are believed to date back to 1600BC. This long but rewarding route is most suitable for experienced walkers. Cross Fell is known for having snow lying on its summit late into the year and is prone to fog and strong winds too so it can be an inhospitable place and is best walked in good weather. Check the forecast before you head out and take a compass with you just in case.

Reward yourself

The family-run Royal Oak Appleby, about six miles from Kirkland, is a lovely pub with a cosy lounge, a real fire and a newly refurbished restaurant serving good pub food. There are also rooms should you want to stay overnight.

Get there

The nearest train stations are at Langwathby and Appleby (settle-carlisle.co.uk). The infrequent Fellrunner bus service, run by local volunteers, stops at Kirkland on request and Blencarn (01768 88232, fellrunnerbus.co.uk). Kirkland is just off the A66.